"His house-made strozzapreti with wild boar ragu has the kind of toothy textural mojo passed down by generations of nonnas; his pillowy gnocchi with rabbit confit sauce is dressed in a thin arugula pesto that had my table gobsmacked; and an Acquarello aged-rice pudding accented with crunchy puffed rice brittle makes playful but respectful use of esoteric ingredients."